Monte Vacano må betegnes som den genopståede kult-riesling. Intet mindre. En vin, vi forventer på sigt at blive solgt på linje med klodens ypperste tørre riesling-vine.

Robert Weil stiftede tilbage i 1875 det i dag verdensberømte Rheingau-domæne med sin hustru Emilie. Emilie var en efterkommer fra den italienske, velhavende Vacano-familie, som havde forladt et ustabilt Norditalien for at bosætte sig ved Rhinen.

Efter etableringen begyndte de at opkøbe parceller omkring Kiedrich, hvoraf en af de mest prestigiøse var en lille 0,5 ha parcel ved navn "Lay," som de købte af Greven af Fürstenberg. Parcellen bestod af et lille højtbeliggende plot, som forbinder Gräfenberg med Turmberg, som man valgte at navngive Monte Vacano. Monte Vacano er unikt i den sammenhæng, da den indeholder en stor andel af det sjældne phyllite-skifer. 

Da Robert Weil gik bort, gik produktionen af Monte Vacano også bort. Denne årgang 2022 er derfor blot den 4. årgang af vinen siden 1921.

Al høst er foregået ved håndkraft i to omgange for at opnå perfekt modenhed, hvorefter druerne er presset nænsomt. Gæringen foregår spontant og lagringen er foregået med de fine gærrester i 22 måneder på to traditionelle "Stükfass". 

99 POINT | James Suckling:
The 2022 vintage was so much about charm, but this is a deeply structured and profoundly minerally wine. Very compact and tightly wound, this medium- to full-bodied dry riesling is just beginning to show how extraordinary it is. The fantastic tension between peachy fruit and balsamic character, between the super-racy acidity and the crushed rock, makes this totally compelling. Incredible length and precision in the finish. From organically grown grapes. Decades of aging potential. Drink from release.

98 POINT | The Wine Advocate:
Aged on the lees for 21 months, the 2022 Monte Vacano Rheingau Riesling Trocken opens with a deep, intense and elegant, rather subtle, even rather muted bouquet that indicates purity and noblesse more than sexiness. Zalto's Bordeaux glass is a perfect match, whereas the Universal is too small, at least for this vintage. There are layers of salts, crushed stones and lemon juice intermingling with vegetal and also fruity notes, and everything intertwines to a deep and quiet, substantial nose that announces a dramatic and eventful Riesling. Full-bodied, remarkably rich and powerful on the palate, this is a mouth-filling, dense and substantial, very saline and complex Riesling whose power and richness is combined with purity, mineral drive and freshness. This is a giant that ranks among the world's finest Rieslings. Its mineral complexity, purity and finesse is mind-blowing, and its stringency and grip indicates an aging potential that extends generations. This is the finest dry Riesling I have tasted at this domaine in more than 20 years. I highly recommended it for any collector of the world's greatest white wines. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2024.

98 POINT | Vinous:
The 2023 Riesling Monte Vacano is from the steepest parcel of Gräfenberg that the family has always called Monte Vacano. This spent 21 months on gross lees, without sulfur dioxide. The shy nose speaks to its subtlety, shimmering with lemon and a distinct creaminess that frames stone fruit and verges gently, deliciously into pale apricot. The palate is all purity and flow. The 2023 is a dreamy, gorgeous, seductive and bone-dry Riesling of the finest order. The finish is of the purest, ripest golden lemon. Readers should note that larger bottle formats of this are sold at auction. (Bone-dry)

Druesammensætning:

Riesling